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  • Writer's pictureKaryn Lucy O'Bryan

Kathmandu, Nepal. Thursday, October 8th. Noon.

Almost two days since departing LA. Got to the guesthouse at midnight and slept like a baby til 7am. Breakfast on the veranda in the rain. Egg, stale corn flakes with hot steamy milk, masala tea, toast and jam. It is 11 hours and 45 minutes ahead of LA time. Explain that one to me. Just been trying to sort out the travel permits to Tibet and exploring the neighborhood. I think someone tried to sell me some hash. I mean maybe not. He just sort of randomly spit out the word “hash?” into my ear as I passed by. So it could have just been a symptom of hash turrets of some sort.

I had cow cheese on toast with hot lemon water for lunch. Walked around the Thamel neighborhood most of the day. The streets are lined with Nepali hats and Nepali pants and Nepali sweaters. Then, just for a little variety every once in a while there is a shop selling Nepali made Tibetan prayer beads. I did find a delicious bakery though.

This city is having a strange effect on me. I feel like I've been here before. Like every Nepali boutique I've ever been to combined with the streets of Mexico, Morocco, Haiti and Chaing Mai. Funny. This is a developing country, no doubt. The poverty is intense, but to me the Thamel tourist area feels like Aspen but with trash everywhere, rotten smells and rabid dogs. At least there is some commerce here. Some hope for a brighter future.

Nepalese people are so sweet! They have a very gentle spirit about them. One young man was so polite as I walked by he called out “Excuse me, may I F#@* you?” May I! My goodness such nice grammar! I tried to match his good manners with a sweet smile and a wink as I flipped him off.

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